Turkey and Germany Are Arguing Over Kebabs. The EU is Set to Resolve the Conflict

Turkey wants to protect döner kebab by having it listed as a "guaranteed traditional specialty" in the EU. This would mean the dish would have to be prepared only in a way specified by the Turks. Germany's Ministry of Food and Agriculture has weighed in on the matter.
'Mój mąż obsesyjnie ogląda Książula. Od 2 miesięcy jemy wyłącznie kebaby. Nawet na weselu!'
Fot. Jakub Ociepa / Agencja Wyborcza.pl

According to Euronews, the Turkish döner industry generates around €2.3 billion annually in Germany alone and €3.5 billion across Europe. However, Turkey is pushing for the European Commission to regulate what would officially qualify as such a kebab. Germany's Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture has voiced opposition to this proposal.

Kebab (zdjęcie ilustracyjne)
Kebab (zdjęcie ilustracyjne)Fot. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Wyborcza.pl

Turkey Wants to Protect Kebabs. EU Officials Must Make a Decision

According to Turkey's proposal, if kebabs were listed as a "guaranteed traditional specialty," they would have to be prepared in a specific way. The beef in the dish would need to come from cattle at least 16 months old and be marinated with specific amounts of animal fat, yogurt or milk, onion, salt, thyme, and various types of pepper. Similar guidelines would apply to poultry. The main ingredient would then need to be cut into pieces between 3 and 5 millimeters thick.

The European Commission must decide by September 24 whether the German Ministry of Food and Agriculture's objection to listing döner kebab is justified. Afterward, Germany and Turkey will have to reach a compromise before the final verdict goes back to the European Commission.

German Minister Defends Kebabs, Weighs in on the Controversy

"Kebab belongs to Germany. Everyone should be able to decide how it is prepared and consumed. There's no need for specifications from Ankara," wrote Cem Özdemir, Germany's Minister of Food and Agriculture, on the X platform. Özdemir, who has Turkish roots, clarified his stance on the matter.

It's worth noting that the word "döner" comes from the Turkish verb "dönmek," meaning "to turn." The first döners were made with lamb and were served only on plates. In the 1970s, Turks living in Berlin began serving them in pita bread and modified the recipe to better suit German tastes.